Archive for September, 2009

Unveiling the Preppy Culture

I was just answering some quizzes on Facebook to de-stress. A sort of reward after a hectic and stressful week in school. All of the quiz results told me that I’m preppy. I had a vague and simplistic understanding of the preppy culture. I posted an article by Chris Hogan below explaining the origins of the preppy culture. Indeed, preppy is not just limited to fashion. Read on. :)

The Roots of American Preppy

This column grew out a discussion on my blog, Off The Cuff DC, on the relationship between classic and preppy styles. The subject quickly became an effort to identify the real roots of American preppy and what it means today.

New England preparatory schools, conservative protestant values and social stratification all combined to create an environment which produced the uniform we know today as the preppy look. Actually, what passes today as “preppy” is a fantasized ideal of make believe history. It is a manufactured past that distorts the classically rooted values which gave birth to the preppy culture. When a kid is called a prep today, it usually means that he wears rugby shirts and shops at Abercrombie & Fitch (I remember when A&F was, in fact a great store). There is no sense of history or understanding of the preppy culture and that’s too bad, because it’s a pretty interesting history.

Yes, it started mostly at New England prep schools and ivy walled colleges. But the roots of preppy style can also be traced to a focus on social achievement, uniformity of style, propriety, proper decorum and class distinction. Conformity of dress at school resulted in the basic uniform of coat, tie, button down shirt, grey flannels or chinos and loafers or lace ups. Codes, traditions and sports also helped to nurture a bond and familiarity among budding preps and instilled in them a feeling of belonging.

This environment helped create a culture of exclusivity that had real influence. To say you prepped at Andover (a feeder school for Harvard) or Hotchkiss (a feeder school for Yale) could win you access to the right social circle or get you into really great parties. And once in the working world, to say you were a Yale man could mean getting the right job, joining the right club or vacationing on Martha’s Vineyard.

As preps sought to instill that sense of tradition and lifestyle in their own children, they looked, of course, to their own preppy past. To the oak paneled lecture halls of Exeter, the squash courts of Deerfield and the rowdy but stylish nights at Choate Rosemary Hall. So their offspring were trucked off to the old alma mater and the cycle began again. But, as with so many other attempts to create a bubble of exclusivity, the prep school aesthetic eventually moved beyond its original sphere of influence.

People want what they do not have or what seems more attractive than what they do. So, when the Preppy Handbook hit the shelves in 1980, its editor Lisa Birchach (herself a Brown grad) overnight became the arbitrar of all things pink and green. People didn’t care that it was intended to be both a send-up of the “true” prep culture as well as a tongue and cheek education for those looking to emulate the life. They saw a way of living that was far more exciting, cultured, sporty and stylish than their own – and they wanted it.

For the first time, preppy culture had been distilled into a portable and easy to understand resource. The privileged and windswept lifestyle that had taken generations of Blue Bloods to develop and refine was now a commodity to be bought and imitated. I often use the term “democratization,” to describe this moment in the life of prep. That is because once the Preppy Handbook came out, kids across the world latched onto the most attractive aspect of the preppy life: its look, the rumpled and ironic blending of dress and casual clothes.

As one of my readers sharply pointed out though, the iconic Ralph Lauren image of mixing dress and purposeful clothing did not start out as a fashion movement; “you don’t wear foul weather gear over your blazer because you’re a blue-blooded American demonstrating your accessibility without appearing tacky; you do it because you’re a wise-mouthed elitist who smugly tells your Latin professor, technically speaking, you haven’t broken any rules so there’s nothing he can do about it. And of course it’s sailing gear, because your father does own a yacht…”

The original audience for the rebellious “foul weather gear over the blazer” look was other preppies and their families. Yet, as this type of hybrid style came into its own, it seeped out into regular society. Eventually spreading to Madison Avenue, it was popularized by style influencers like Ralph Lauren. The prep boom of the 1980s waned over time due, I think, to its extreme and vibrant interpretation of the preppy culture; there was an almost cartoonish quality to the movement. Broadly speaking, the current resurgence in preppy style has taken on a more worn, comfortable and “vintage” personality. It seems approachable and less stuffy.

An interesting thing has happened to the breeding grounds of prepdom too. If you walk through Harvard Yard or Yale’s Old Campus, you don’t see too many of the snooty old-line preps anymore. They are still there of course, along with Skull & Bones and the legacy kids whose wealthy parents bought their admission. But what you really see is that a majority of the kids milling around campus these days more closely reflect the modern world. The prep thing is still very strong – stronger perhaps than in the 1980s – but it has been modernized and updated. Just like everything else in life.

Confessions of a Mag-aholic

I am a magazine addict. I can spend almost half of my allowance on magazines alone and I am not exactly proud of that. I love magazines. I love the fresh-from-the-press smell it gives off when I open the plastic, the beautiful photographs that fill its pages, the well-written articles about art, fashion, and travel, and just the sheer joy that I get from holding a bunch of glorified, glossy papers bound in an attractive cover.

When I got to watch The Devil Wears Prada, my fascination for magazines and the amount of work that goes behind it increased. Although it was a lot of hard work, it looked like it was fun. But the most interesting part in that movie was when Andi (played by Anne Hathaway) transformed from plain Jane to fashionable Amazona. I realized that my attraction to these expensive books is not just limited to the published work. It was the lifestyle, so different from what could have been if not for these magazines.

The first time I laid my eyes on a copy of Candy was when I was a high school freshman. The cover alone suggested everything that an awkward 11-year-old could ever ask for—fun, fashion, and with the tagline “The best-est friend you’ll ever have,” a friend that can give advice that none of your real friends can even think of. I thought that it was my ticket to escaping the ordinary life that I suddenly found myself in.

When I entered college, I started reading Seventeen just because it claimed to be ‘Your ultimate college life guide.’ I thought that college won’t be fun, memorable, and worthy without Seventeen. Last April, Seventeen released its last issue. But I must say that I lived through almost five months without it. Although it’s sad because I won’t be seeing a new issue every month anymore, it also got me thinking that I can live my life without the tips and advices, whether in fashion, school, or relationships, that Seventeen gave me for the past three years. Also, the absence of an “official life guide” led me to the scary truth—my identity was based on what these magazines told me.

Beauty, fashion, and relationships, wrapped up in a heavy dose of advertising, have long been the staple of women’s magazines. For over 300 years, titles have been directed toward the female sex. The first recorded woman’s magazine, the London-based Ladies Mercury, which was launched in 1693, promised to provide answers to all “the most nice and curious questions concerning love, marriage, behaviour, dress and humour of the female sex,” which set a pattern for all women’s magazines for centuries.

Fast forward to 2009, lifestyle magazines still claim to have a special and sacred knowledge of things that are beautiful and acceptable. They set the standard and with that standard, they sell an identity that each of us can put on. It seems that through the photographs and text, the magazine pleads with us to experience both pleasure in consuming idealized lifestyles and a sense of failure and guilt if we can’t apply such representations to our lives.

To have is to be. That’s the basic message these magazines tell you. So if you can’t achieve what these magazines represent, you can’t be the “fun, fearless female” of Cosmopolitan? You’re clingy and needy because you’re not the “independent woman” of Metro? You’re uninteresting because you’re not the “Because You’re Not Just Another Girl” G! magazine caters to?

I’ve read somewhere that “music and newspapers were once lodestones of both daily life and collective experience.” Since the rise of lifestyle magazines, I’m sure that it’s a part of the foundation of mass culture that we adhere to today. But I’m scared to see the day when all of us would be walking around looking and acting exactly like the girls in those magazines.

I don’t want to hinge my identity on those publications because my identity cannot, and should never, be bought. So when I strip myself of all the characteristics I possess due to immersing myself in the lifestyle that they promote, who am I really?

Beauty from Ashes

We live in a dark world. Everyone who has watched the nightly news or read the newspapers knows this fact. But have you ever wondered who the people in the news are? Have you stopped to consider what’s really going on in their hearts? Or are they only names to you? Names that are then forgotten the moment another evil deed is exposed?

 

All of us have been wronged, betrayed, or violated at least once in our lives. Some would blow their whistle and demand justice no matter how delayed it is. But once justice has been served, they still have that bruise in their hearts for the rest of their lives. Others wouldn’t get the justice that they wanted and would only be another number in the ever-growing list (or statistics) of victims of heinous crimes. But a number would choose to stay quiet, overcome by shame, hoping that time will heal their wounds.

 

I met Frances (not her real name) in one of my classes last school year. She’s a good student, participative in extracurricular activities, and she has a lot of friends. You won’t even see her walking around campus without a smile on her face. On the outside, you’d think she’s fine. In fact, she looks like she’s just having the time of her life. And that’s exactly what she wants you to think.

 

Deep inside, she’s crying for help but she can’t trust anyone. For 14 years, she’s built a great wall around her, a wall composed not of mortar and bricks but of anger, bitterness, shame, and self-sufficiency. She figured that time will heal her wounds and while she’s waiting for time to do its job, she’s working on hardening her heart so she can no longer feel hurt or pain.

 

Contrary to popular belief, time doesn’t heal wounds. It only buries them for a while but they have a way of catching up with you in the end. And it’s catching up with Frances right now.

 

Despite all that, Frances is not just another hopeless case. In fact, it’s when we’re broken that we realize we have nothing to lose and we discover something we should have known all along—we are loved and God is the healer. There is nothing too great for Him to restore. All your hurts, burdens, and sorrows can be healed by the Great Healer. No wall is too strong or hard for His grace, mercy, and love to break through.

 

Find it hard to believe? Isaiah 61:1 says, “The Spirit of the Lord is upon me, because the Lord has anointed me to bring good news to the poor, he has sent me to bind up the brokenhearted, to proclaim liberty to the captives, and the opening of the prison to those who are bound” (emphasis mine). Jesus is the only one that can set us free. He heals even the deep places if only you’ll let Him.

 

Isn’t it ironic that the things that we work so hard to keep away from Jesus are the very things we should give up to Him? Why are we so focused on holding on to our bruises and wounds? Why do we choose to hold on to our ashes? What exactly are we protecting ourselves from? If God be with us, who can be against us?

 

I’ve always wondered why this world is so full of hurting people. Maybe it’s because we prefer to close our hearts so there’s no way anyone can ever hurt us. Yes we can no longer feel hurt or pain, but we can also no longer hear God when He speaks to us or love others when they’re crying out for love or receive love when someone wants to love us. It’s a cycle that’s been going on since the beginning of time. But God offers a beautiful exchange. The passage goes on in verse 2: “…to give a beautiful headdress instead of ashes, the oil of gladness instead of mourning, the garment of praise instead of a faint spirit…

 

He’s offering this to you right now. Will you take it?